Timely Tips for Gardeners

How to grow Giant Pumpkins

 

 

Timely Tips and Instructions for Growing Giant Pumpkins:

 

It’s time to think of Halloween pumpkins if you want to grow a giant one. The longer it’s growing, the bigger it’ll get, so start soon!

1. Select a Site in full sun. Growth relates directly to the amount of sunlight.  They need 8 to 12 hours every day.
2. They need space. Each hill (cluster of three to four plants) should be spaced 35 to 50 feet apart, if you are planting more than one hill.

3. Soil must be rich and well prepared.  The best pumpkins come from the best prepared soil. Dig a hole 3 to 4 feet deep and 3 to 5 feet in diameter and mix the soil well with six to eight bags of soil amendments or conditioners. Include steer or horse manure that is one or more years old. Put the mixed soil back in the hole. You should now have a mound two to five feet in diameter and 16-18” high at the center.
4. Germinate Giant Pumpkin Seeds.
   1. Soak seeds overnight 8-12 hours in warm water. This softens the shell and accelerates germination. Start this mid-April to mid-May. If you have a warm, sunny environment, like a greenhouse or cold frame, you will get substantial growth before transplanting, so use a container that will hold enough seed germinating soil mix such as a 5” or larger pot or a flat of soil 2” deep and 18” X 18”. Keep moist and warm 75 to 80 degrees F is ideal. Special seed germinating soil cables under the flats or pots will hasten the process. The cable is also useful for starting cuttings of other plants. This special cable is water resistant and is safe, avoiding electrocution. Plug in to a protected ground fault interrupted plug for further safety. Do not use sharp tools in the soil once the cable is in place. To keep the cable for years of growing, clean it off and store it dry between uses.
   2. Under these conditions, the seeds should sprout in 4-7 days, sometimes even sooner.
   3. After the seedlings have developed one or two true (large and veined) leaves, the plants are ready to transplant into the mound.
   4. Alternatively, you may just plant the seeds directly in the mounds once the soil has warmed up later in the season. Competitive giant pumpkin growers have successfully used both methods.
   5. Transplant on a warm, calm day or in the evening to reduce dehydration. Plant the seedling peat pot and all in the center of the mound, making sure the peat pot is well below the surface of the mound. Use care to minimize soil compaction with your weight. You can distribute your weight across a sheet of plywood or large, lightweight board.
   6.  Protect your new plant from earwigs with rolled up newspaper or earwig bait or put a cardboard box with the top and bottom removed to also protect from rodents and wind. Take off once the seedling is fully established, usually 7-10 days.
5. Watering, Fertilizing and Care.
   1. Pumpkins are 90% water, so the soil should be kept fairly moist. Do not keep the soil saturated, though as disease problems might arise. Water daily to once every 2-5 days depending on your weather and soil conditions. Watering times should be consistent. The best time to water is early mornings 5 to 8:30 am. If you can't make that time, the next best time is late afternoons/early evenings.
   2. Use organic fertilizer every 5-10 days. Seaweed kelp and/or fish emulsion are some of the fertilizers being used by competitive Giant pumpkin growers.
   3. Mulch around the main stem with bark, compost, straw or well aged manure 3-4” deep. Leave 9-12” air space around the stem to avoid rotting it. Mulching will help regulate soil temperature and retain moisture around the main stem and primary root system.
   4. Place a wooden pallet under the pumpkin before it gets too big and too difficult to move (10-25 pounds) to keep the pumpkins bottom from rotting, and to facilitate lifting and transporting later.
   5. Shade the pumpkin once it reaches 24” to 36” diameter to keep the skin from burning, hardening and cracking from the hot, mid-late summer/early autumn sunshine. The pumpkin expands very quickly during this last growth phase, so protect the flexibility of the skin with shade. Short of building a miniature shade house, you can use cheese cloth over the fruit or carefully cover the pumpkin with its own leaves. Be very careful not to break the vine.
   6. I’ve (Ken) carved larger pumpkins with a small electric chain saw. It works great on the extra-thick rind.

 

Article by Stuart Shim copyright 2008

Edited by Ken Brizzi 2010

Tropical getaway

Kona sunset. 81 degrees F. Sitting next to a blow hole off the 6th fairway next to a sand trap. Peaceful paradise, drinking white Napa valley wine and eating macadamia nuts from today's factory tour. Helicopter ride over the volcano's lava flow was exciting. Be sure to see the Sea Horse Aquarium when here. It's the only one in the World!

 

Decorative, Useful Plants You Can Eat

Weird Al has a spoof of Michael Jackson's song "Beat It" called "Eat It". I knew of "Eat It" long before I had heard "Beat It". You can connect with Weird Al through my Twitter page or do a search in Twitter for @alyankovic

 

My friend, Dion, said "If I can't eat it, I pull it out of my yard". That includes shrubs and shade trees that don't produce tasty fruit. He and I spent several hours last Saturday grafting multiple varieties of cherries onto an established cherry tree. I commented that a crepe myrtle was shading the cherry and should be transplanted or pulled out. Dion said "If we can't eat it, pull it out". It wasn't even his yard. The crepe myrtle stayed-for now. I'm guessing once the cherries start producing, they will become a priority. Trees that produce edible fruit are mostly well known. Some not so well know are Avocado (Mexican types are the most cold hardy), Cornelian and Kousa Dogwoods, Jujube, Mayhaw, White and Persian Mulberries, Elderberry, Olives, Persimmons, Strawberry Tree and Loquat (there are hybrids that produce superior fruit to the seedlings). For an extensive list of deciduous fruit trees see: Dave Wilson Nursery Catalog Online

Here is a list of edible shrubs and vines for your yard:

Pineapple guava, strawberry guava, Natal Plum (caution: spiny thorns!), Artichoke, Paw paw, Ginger, Dwarf citrus, kiwi, passion fruit, dwarf purple fig, blueberries, cane berries like Oregon 1030 Everbearing Raspberries, Fruiting Quince, Currant, Gooseberry, Rosemary, sages, thymes, many more perennial herbs, Asparagus, Rhubarb (keep raw plants away from pets and children. Must be cooked to be edible), Grapes, Passion fruit vine (use only a hardy one), Aloe, Lemon grass,

If you have a greenhouse, you can have Lichee, Mango, Macadamia, tea, lemon guava, Vanilla Orchid, dwarf bananas like Ice Cream and Cavendish and many more varieties.

So, don't worry if you eat yourself out of house and home, because there's always they yard.

Healthy Gardening,

Ken Brizzi

Water-wise Yards

It was in the daily news, on the radio, TV, grocery line conversations, barber shops, prayers, the dreaded word "drought". Back in the 1970's, I was interviewed on TV and for the newspapers about the 7 year great drought. Will we all shrivel up and die? Will our yards all be dead; our lawns, shrubs, trees, flowers and vegetable gardens?

Flash forward to today. We have beautiful landscapes. Our brown lawns came back and we made them smaller. We lost some ill-suited plants and shrubs and replaced them with water-wise plants. We switched to better watering systems and stopped rotting out our plants with too much water. Less water runs down the gutters and we save money. Drip systems and mulch have become the norm. Fertilizer run-off and pollution is reduced. In other words, we were forced into plant education and ecology. We became greener. We saved water, became cleaner, healthier and worked less by working smarter. We became careful to choose plants that worked successfully.

Another drought reminds us of natures lessons. We are in a part of California that is always considered in need of more water, so our ways must permanently change. Use a broom instead of hosing down the driveway. Spot water the lawn only where it's dry instead of flooding everywhere with sprinklers every third day; by the way, watering lawns every other day is too ofter for most grasses and soils, the exception being sandy soil. Plant smaller lawns and increase shrub beds. Use water wise shrubs. If possible, plant in the cooler seasons. In summer plantings, cover new plants with shade cloth for a week or two as they get established.

Roots grow when the soil is 50 degrees F. or more. By planting now, the root system will be large and the top will explode with growth in spring and summer, making the most efficient use of precious water. In Februaary and March, nurseries will have staff available to spend time with you to give you lots of advice and help you plan your landscape in detail. Many Mediterranean plants are water-wise because they are similar to central and central coast California natives, so find a professional nursery with staff that can give you lots of choices. Some Australian, New Zealand and other hot, dry continent plants also will grow here as water-wise plants. A good list is at:

Monterey Bay Nursery catalog list of Plants

Nurseries have lists and books dedicated to water-wise plants and planting methods. Remember that success starts with soil preparation and healthy plants of the right choice.

Healthy Gardening,

Ken Brizzi

Fruit Tree Multiple Varieties on one tree (follow up to grafting) by Budding...

For those that missed the garden demonstration on grafting, you still have time to save scion (top) wood for budding. Look up budding on line since it would take me pages to detail the procedure here. Basically, I would like to say that if you wish to have me teach you in the garden, email me and we'll set up a day for that. You have a couple of months until budding season. The sap in the parent (rootstock) plant needs to start flowing to bud.

Now is the time to collect the scion wood-while it is dormant. A word of caution though.....be sure the varieties you collect are not patented. You are not allowed to propagate patented plants just like DVD movies are protected from being copied. If you are in doubt, look on line or ask me.

To collect the varieties you want to add to your trees, clip a branch that has some dormant leaf (not flower) buds on wood that is about thumb thickness. This will give you a flat enough surface to make the "shield bud" cut needed to insert into the rootstock. Keep your donor budwood moist with damp shredded paper in a plastic bag in the refrigerator. Do not freeze. Do not keep under water. Check moisture in bag once a week.

Wood is dormant in January. When the buds start swelling, it's too late to collect, so don't wait. Ask friends, neighbors, and even your favorite nursery for particular varieties you need. Sometimes you might have to pay for the scion wood. Be sure it is not diseased. In plums, cherries and some other stone fruits, ring spot virus is a problem. If the tree was ill last summer, don't chance infecting your parent tree.

Walnut, Pistachio, and Pecan are extremely difficult and would be best to buy already professionally budded and grown out as deep-potted and well rooted trees.

Some fruit plants like pomegranates are on their own roots and don't require grafting or budding. Others can grow on their own roots, but need to be grafted due to soil, insect or other problems. For example, grapes succumb to phylloxera insects if grown on their own rootstocks in large vineyards. Singly in a backyard, there is a good chance phylloxera will not be there, unless your yard backs up to an infested vineyard. Also, grapes can be grafted to be more vigorous in poor soils.

Select rootstocks and top varieties with purpose and enjoy the fruits of your labor under the shade of your trees.

Healthy Gardening.

Ken Brizzi

 

Garden Activity January 29, 2012: Ken Brizzi Community Garden

Impromptu Class on:

*Pruning and Grafting Fruit trees. Grafting safety.

*Identifying Fruit trees by their dormant wood and bud identification.

*How to get Fruit trees to produce more fruit lower in the tree to make picking easier.

*How to get Fruit trees to produce more fruit at a younger age.

*How to grow Fruit organically.

*Identifying Shot Hole Borer.

*Identifying Gumosis.

*Identifying Fruiting spurs and determining production life spans of spurs for Cherries and other species.

*Winter Harvesting Broccoli.

*Successful winter vegetable crops for Sacramento Gardens.

*Terms: Cambium, V-graft, Whip-graft, Cleft-graft, grafting rubber, latex paint, Elmer’s glue, latent bud, Summer pruning.

Garden members, please call or email me or use the comment section of my blog for class suggestions, and questions.

Healthy Gardening,

Ken Brizzi

The Crocker Art Museum - Put it on your list of things to do in Sacramento

The Crocker Art Museum is in downtown Sacramento (216 O Street, Sacramento, CA) and is one of many reasons to visit Sacramento (alongside river rafting, the Capitol, the Kings while we still have them, the State Fair, Thanksgiving 10Ks, the Crest Theatre, the River Cats, the Delta King, gold mines, Old Sacramento, lots of trees, amazing wine tasting and the crooked mile at Fairytale Town in William Land Park, among things). 

via sarahroselinda.typepad.com

Here's the video from our museum visit: http://youtu.be/GlFP4wmhu3I

 

 

Dill Pickles - An Easy, Delicious Recipe

 

Dill Pickles - The Blue Ball Book - Short Method 

Recipe doubled with some adaptations to make 7 quarts.  Use a meat slicer to cut cucumbers 1/4" thick  as "stackers" when fitting in canning jars. 

 

1 cup each sugar and sea salt

2 qt. distilled white vinegar (5% acid)

2 qt. water

2 tbsp. mixed pickling spice

21 plus medium cucumbers (5 - 6 inches long), washed and ends trimmed

garlic (sliced) AND dill flower heads. 

 

Combine the first four ingredients.

Tie spices in a cheesecloth bag.

Add to liquid and simmer 15 minutes.

 

Wash and heat-dry widemouth jars in dishwasher.

Put a head of dill and a slice or more of garlic in each jar.

Pack cucumber slices in hot jars leaving 1/4" headspace.

 

Heat brine to boiling.

Pour over cucumbers in hot jars leaving 1/4" headspace. 

Wipe clean jar rim, tighten lids and caps.

In a pot tall enough for water to come up to top of lids, fill 1/2 way with water

and bring to a boil.

  Place jars in water and adjust so that water is to top of lids.  

Process in hot water bath. Count 15 muniutes from beginning of the water boiling. 

Remove with jar lifting tool.  Cool and watch for lids to cave downward indicating

a firm seal. 

If you decide to use this receipe, you'll want to plan space for and  pick up seed for cucumbers, dill and plant garlic cloves in your garden this spring.

Healthy Gardening,

K. Alan Brizzi 

 

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Lemongrass - Refreshing, delicious cooking herb and gift idea

Lemongrass is a sensual delight in the garden, tea, stir fry, oriental cooking and in candle making. I’ll show you how to use this striking garden perennial to make tea gifts as party favors or “just because” gifts.  It’s quick, easy, and classy. Lemon grass Tea Treats. MVI_4888.AVI  

Since Lemongrass is green and healthy looking most of the year, it can be harvested and used at any time except late January through early March, when it is brown from the frost. If you wish to have some on hand for winter use, in the fall bring a pot of it indoors as a house plant and grow it near a sunny window.

It is extremely easy to start from a clump division from a friend. Nurseries sell it in small pots, which is all you need as it is fast growing and will develop into a large clump in one or two seasons. Use monthly organic feedings and water twice a week with the rest of your vegetable garden. It is not fussy about watering and will withstand a little drought. If it dries out and turns brown in the summer, it will quickly recover with watering. Few pests bother lemongrass. It is a delight to smell in the garden and visitors are easily impressed when you crush some leaf tips in your hand for them.  Visually, it is a nice corner accent and blocks the hose from running over delicate plants when you walk around the corner of the garden to water.  Some gardeners use it in the corners just to protect plants from the hose. Rosemary works well for hose protection, too.

Lemongrass is healthy and tasty. I hope you have a chance to try it in your garden this year.

Happy, Healthy Gardening,

Ken Brizzi

Coles: Broccoli, Cabbage, Kale, Cauliflower, BroccoFlower , Romanesco, Collards

Growing Cole Crops

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Cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, Brussels sprouts and kale make up a group of cool season vegetables known as cole crops. The word “cole” means stem and has nothing to do with the fact that these vegetables are tolerant to “cold.”

Cole crops are hardy and grow best in the spring and fall. However, growers must take care to avoid extended periods of low temperature before or after transplanting.

Successful production of cole crops is related to how each crop grows and which plant part is eaten. The edible parts of broccoli and cauliflower are the flower heads which are quite sensitive to environmental and nutritional stress. Cabbage and Brussels sprouts produce leafy heads and can withstand greater fluctuations in weather and nutrition.

Growing Conditions

Site Cole crops will tolerate some shade but full sun in winter is always preferable. If garden space or orientation is such that some vegetables will have to be partially shaded, reserve the full-sun area for warm season crops.

Soil A wide range of soils is suitable but fertile, well-drained loams are considered best, especially for early crops. Cole crops will grow better in heavier, cooler soils than warm season crops.

Fertilizer A soil pH in the range of 6.0 to 6.8 is optimum, but a pH maintained on the high side of the range will help control the soil-borne disease called clubroot. Cole crops are heavy feeders and do best in a deep, fertile soil enriched with plenty of organic matter. A soil test will determine deficiencies of major plant nutrients and recommend ways to correct them. Because cole crops can easily become deficient in minor elements, at least part of the fertilizer material should be composted manure or composted vegetable matter to ensure a supply of these nutrients. Of the four crops, cauliflower is the most exacting in soil and fertility requirements.

Planting and Culture

Most growers grow cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli and Brussels sprouts from spring transplants rather than seeding them directly, although fall crops may be seeded directly into the garden in early summer. A quality transplant is a vital key to a successful crop. To prevent premature flower stalk formation, keep the seedlings growing above 60º F. This is particularly true for broccoli and cauliflower. A good transplant is 5 to 6 weeks old, sturdy with good color, and has been hardened off. Older plants or those that have already formed small heads do not yield as well as younger plants. Ensure vigorous growth once plants are set in the garden to prevent the flowering heads of broccoli and cauliflower from “buttoning”. “Buttons” are small, unusable heads borne on small plants stunted by drought, weed competition, or insect damage. A few days of low temperature (35ºF to 50º F) can also cause buttons to develop. While young cabbage plants can withstand very low temperatures (even down to 10º to 15º F for a night or two), broccoli and cauliflower are not nearly so resistant. Do not plant too early!

Space rows 24 to 36 inches apart, setting transplants or thinning seedlings12 inches apart for cabbage and 18 inches for cauliflower, broccoli, and Brussels sprouts.

When direct-seeding, plant seed 1/4 inch deep. Conserve seed by grouping 3 to 4 seeds at the desired plant spacing instead of the more traditional system of sowing a continuous row and discarding many seedlings by thinning. Proper spacing is important for maximum crop yield. Adding a soluble starter fertilizer around each plant at the time of transplanting helps get the plant off to a good start. Before filling in the transplant hole add one cup of starter solution made up of 2 tablespoons per gallon of soluble fertilizer such as 16-32-16 or 10-45-15.

Weed Control

Avoid garden areas heavily infested with quackgrass. Hand weeding or hoeing, shallow cultivation and straw or hay mulches will provide excellent control. Black plastic mulch also provides good weed control when crops are established with transplants. An efficient planting pattern is a double row with the plants in a staggered arrangement.

Pest Control

The first line of defense against all insect pests and diseases of cole crops is crop rotation. Do not plant any cole crop in a spot occupied the previous year by another cole family member. Two or three-year rotations are even better. Flea beetles and root maggots can cause serious damage to cole crops, chewing away the roots of young seedlings so they wilt and die. Covering beds or rows with floating row covers of spun-bonded polyester for the first month of more of growth will prevent attacks by both these pests. The larval stages of several different species of moths can also cause serious damage. Row covers left on throughout the growing season, or regular applications of Bt (Bacillus thuriengiensis), a bacterial poison that kills only caterpillars, will control cabbage worms of all species. Clubroot is a soil-borne disease causing stunted plants which wilt even in moist soil. Raise the pH to 7.0 to 7.2 if this disease is a problem. Practice rotation, that is, don’t plant the same crop in the same spot every year. Switch spots where you plant crops.

Harvest

Cabbage Harvest when the head is very firm. Springy heads are not mature.

Cauliflower Harvest heads when they reach a diameter of 5 to 8 inches and before the segments

begin to separate. To get pure white heads, exclude light. If you are not growing a “self-blanching” variety, tie the outer leaves over the developing head with rubber bands or clothespins and keep them tied until harvest. Do not be concerned if some light gets through and discolors the head; the eating quality is not affected.

Broccoli Harvest while the head is still compact and before the small flower buds open up to

show yellow. Head diameter will range from 4 to 8 inches. After this center head is harvested

side shoots (heads) of 2 to 3 inches will develop.

Brussels sprouts Small, cabbage-like sprouts develop along the thick stem, maturing first at the

base of the plant. As the sprouts enlarge, remove the large leaves between the sprouts. Pinch out

the growing tip of the plants in early September to hasten maturity. Harvest the sprouts when

they are firm and before they open up. A light frost or two improves their flavor.

Kale - Harvest kale any time leaves are large enough for intended use. Tender young leaves are

best for salad; older leaves for cooking. Frost improves the flavor of kale.

Storage

Mature cole crops are quite hardy and will withstand several frosts (or even snow) in the fall; therefore, “garden storage” is feasible well into October or November, even later for the hardiest varieties of kale and Brussels sprouts.

Late fall or winter cabbage can be stored for several months if kept in humid conditions as close to freezing as possible. Store only disease-free heads. Remove loose outer leaves and place in containers lined with perforated plastic bags. Pull out the cabbages and hang in a moist cellar, roots and all, or cut heads, remove loose outer leaves and spread one layer deep on shelves or pallets in a moist root cellar. Visit website: ceinfo.unh.eduUNH Cooperative Extension programs and policies are consistent with pertinent Federal and State laws and regulations on non-discrimination regarding age, color, handicap, national origin, race, religion, sex, sexual orientation, or veterans status.Fact sheet originally developed by Dr. Otho Wells, former UNH Cooperative Extension Vegetable Specialist, revised 2/01

Update for April 20, 2010

 
Our spell of spring sunshine just broke into some clouds and large raindrops with a rainbow at the same time. Planning for rain, we planted the "Feed the Hungry Garden" these past two weeks with the help of a family from the U.K. so, this year it is an International effort! Thank you to the Betts Family! They are surprised to learn that we will be giving away close to one ton of tomatoes to the kitchens to cook meals for the homeless. We will be picking in a couple of months on plants that will reach close to 5' tall. They cannot till yet because of rainy, muddy fields. Our pool is almost warm enough to swim in already. Solar heating is wonderful. We thought about swimming yesterday, but not today. Summer will be here soon and every day will be a swimming day in the afternoon (saving the mornings or evenings for gardening).

Healthy Gardening,

K. Alan Brizzi

 

The garden's contributors now include international visitors

How to grow Giant Pumpkins

 

 

Timely Tips and Instructions for Growing Giant Pumpkins:

It’s time to think of Halloween pumpkins if you want to grow a giant one. The longer it’s growing, the bigger it’ll get, so start soon!

1. Select a Site in full sun. Growth relates directly to the amount of sunlight.  They need 8 to 12 hours every day.
2. They need space. Each hill (cluster of three to four plants) should be spaced 35 to 50 feet apart, if you are planting more than one hill.
3. Soil must be rich and well prepared.  The best pumpkins come from the best prepared soil. Dig a hole 3 to 4 feet deep and 3 to 5 feet in diameter and mix the soil well with six to eight bags of soil amendments or conditioners. Include steer or horse manure that is one or more years old. Put the mixed soil back in the hole. You should now have a mound two to five feet in diameter and 16-18” high at the center.
4. Germinate Giant Pumpkin Seeds.
   1. Soak seeds overnight 8-12 hours in warm water. This softens the shell and accelerates germination. Start this mid-April to mid-May. If you have a warm, sunny environment, like a greenhouse or cold frame, you will get substantial growth before transplanting, so use a container that will hold enough seed germinating soil mix such as a 5” or larger pot or a flat of soil 2” deep and 18” X 18”. Keep moist and warm 75 to 80 degrees F is ideal. Special seed germinating soil cables under the flats or pots will hasten the process. The cable is also useful for starting cuttings of other plants. This special cable is water resistant and is safe, avoiding electrocution. Plug in to a protected ground fault interrupted plug for further safety. Do not use sharp tools in the soil once the cable is in place. To keep the cable for years of growing, clean it off and store it dry between uses.
   2. Under these conditions, the seeds should sprout in 4-7 days, sometimes even sooner.
   3. After the seedlings have developed one or two true (large and veined) leaves, the plants are ready to transplant into the mound.
   4. Alternatively, you may just plant the seeds directly in the mounds once the soil has warmed up later in the season. Competitive giant pumpkin growers have successfully used both methods.
   5. Transplant on a warm, calm day or in the evening to reduce dehydration. Plant the seedling peat pot and all in the center of the mound, making sure the peat pot is well below the surface of the mound. Use care to minimize soil compaction with your weight. You can distribute your weight across a sheet of plywood or large, lightweight board.
   6.  Protect your new plant from earwigs with rolled up newspaper or earwig bait or put a cardboard box with the top and bottom removed to also protect from rodents and wind. Take off once the seedling is fully established, usually 7-10 days.
5. Watering, Fertilizing and Care.
   1. Pumpkins are 90% water, so the soil should be kept fairly moist. Do not keep the soil saturated, though as disease problems might arise. Water daily to once every 2-5 days depending on your weather and soil conditions. Watering times should be consistent. The best time to water is early mornings 5 to 8:30 am. If you can't make that time, the next best time is late afternoons/early evenings.
   2. Use organic fertilizer every 5-10 days. Seaweed kelp and/or fish emulsion are some of the fertilizers being used by competitive Giant pumpkin growers.
   3. Mulch around the main stem with bark, compost, straw or well aged manure 3-4” deep. Leave 9-12” air space around the stem to avoid rotting it. Mulching will help regulate soil temperature and retain moisture around the main stem and primary root system.
   4. Place a wooden pallet under the pumpkin before it gets too big and too difficult to move (10-25 pounds) to keep the pumpkins bottom from rotting, and to facilitate lifting and transporting later.
   5. Shade the pumpkin once it reaches 24” to 36” diameter to keep the skin from burning, hardening and cracking from the hot, mid-late summer/early autumn sunshine. The pumpkin expands very quickly during this last growth phase, so protect the flexibility of the skin with shade. Short of building a miniature shade house, you can use cheese cloth over the fruit or carefully cover the pumpkin with its own leaves. Be very careful not to break the vine.
   6. I’ve carved larger pumpkins with a small electric chain saw. It works great on the extra-thick rind. The world record is 1,725 pounds set last year in Ohio.

Healthy Gardening!

 

Article by Stuart Shim copyright 2008

Edited by Ken Brizzi 2010