Timely Tips for Gardeners

Potato Pointers

March is a great time to plant potato plants. Many gardeners plant the first of February and then cover their emerging plants with leaves and warm compost. I've waited until now because my winter garden is so full of lettuces, broccoli, Kale, Garlic, Onions, Swiss Chard, Artichokes, Sugar Snap Peas, Lemongrass, Spinach, and Radishes. I have no room, yet. So, I'm starting my potato plants from Certified seed potatoes. Choose from white, yellow, golden, red, even blue and purple. See the Washington State University Potato List. Hold down your control key and push enter to open a new window to get a list of many potato varieties. There are many varieties in existence. Though not many available locally, there are enough to suit any palate.

To Grow, You will need:

1. Certified seed Potatoes from a nursery. DO NOT use grocery store potatoes, since they are not certified grown and inspected by your county agricultural inspector and could introduce unwanted diseases into your garden. On my trip to Ireland, an entire city was dedicated to education about the potato famine of 1845.
2. Sphagnum moss raw and rolled (not milled). and a 5 gallon bucket of clean water.
3. A sharp knife.
4. A flat bedding container made of plastic.

 If you use potatoes that are small- that only have two or three eyes each, then you can skip this entire process and just plant directly into the ground.

I bought a bag of La Soda Red potatoes for $5.00 and made 50 potato starts, making my investment ten cents per plant. I expect to get 10 potatoes per plant, so I'll be paying a penny per potato. Some will be small and useful for breakfast frying with butter (yummy). Some will be large for stuffing. All will be creamy and flavorful and organic.

The process is to cut the medium and large potatoes into pieces that will have two eyes each, making sure the eyes have some potato "meat" with them. They will use this potato starch as they start to grow. Some eyes may already be sprouted. Leave the sprouted parts on and they will grow quicker. Keep your knife and workspace clean to prevent diseases getting on the potato pieces. Let the cut parts scab over. This might take a few hours or overnight. Small potatoes do best to remain uncut and plant well directly into the ground. They would have the diameter of a silver dollar or smaller.

Prepare the sprouting flat by lining the bottom with water saturated Sphagnum moss. The best way to get the moss wet is to douse it in a bucket of water until all the bubbles are out of it. this may take fifteen minutes or more. Use this same method when using raw moss to make hanging wire baskets. Then unroll enough to cover the bottom of your flat. Place your potato pieces onto the Sphagnum "eyes up" carefully, so you don't break any sprouting parts. Then, gently place another layer of Sphagnum on top of the pieces to keep them moist. Water thouroghly. Cover with plastic at night to keep from freezing. Do not let the plastic stay on during sunny days or the potatoes will cook. In about 4 weeks you'll see lots of green growth that resembles tomato plant leaves, to which they are related. It's now time to plant them into your garden.

Potatoes need deeply tilled soil. If your roto-tiller doesn't till deep enough, use a shovel and dig down at least 12" and add lots of compost. Rake the area flat. Rake slight trenches and mounds to make rows. Place the potato pieces onto the sides of the mounds and cover them with the soil from the tops of the mounds. Place them two feet apart alternating sides of the rows. Use the shallow trenches to water. Apply water as needed, which is usually two times per week. Cover with mulch if rain erodes the soil over potato pieces. Potatoes can be buried somewhat and still produce abundantly. Some gardeners cover them with straw and get potatoes growing in the straw. If you try this, be sure the leaves are still above the straw and getting plenty of sunshine so they can manufacture food to make potatoes for you. Do not step in the bed. Loose soil produces more than compacted soil. Some gardeners make a tower of potatoes using old tires and fill the tires with straw as the potato plant grows. Then, to harvest, they just lift off the tires one by one and pick out their meals. You can plant different colors in the same tire if you are short on space.

Fruit Tree "Flu Season" comes with late rains.

Water born diseases spread in fruit trees with late season rains. We need the water for roots to grow, but at the same time, diseases spread. Expect Cherries fruits to have cracks. Expect leaves of Peaches and Nectarines to get Peach leaf curl even if you have sprayed. Expect the spread of Fire Blight in pears and apples. Expect Brown Rot fungus on Citrus fruit and stone fruit. To treat most of these use fungicides and bactericides. Organically, use Micronized Copper mixed with a Spreader-Sticker (to keep the copper on the tree trunks, branches and twigs. Spreader-Sticker also helps the Copper penetrate cracks in the bark and adhere to more effectively smother the fungal spores and eliminate them.

The trouble with spraying pesticides during flowering or right after, is that spraying may hinder fruit set. Late rains cause farmers to make compromise choices, so as home "farmers", you too will have to make compromise choices. I say sacrafice some of the crop for the health of your trees for one year and spray. Be sure to fertilize to help your trees out grow the diseases.Use balanced fertilizers that contain hearty doses of Nitrogen- the first of the three numbers on the fertilizer label. By the way, the three numbers you read on a fertilizer package always represent N-P-K which is the percentage by weight of  (N)itrogen, (P)hosphorous- and (K) Potassium. Micronutrients are listed seperately after these. Usually Iron is listed as Fe. Ferrous. Commonly, Iron is micronized or, the most available to the plant is chelated iron which is taken up right away and used immediately by the plant. Chelated form is a little more expensive to buy, but well worth the cost. You will see a dramatic difference in the plant's greening color and vigorous growth. all of the

Early season Weeding

Keep your spring garden weed-free. It is easier to hoe small weeds than try to pull large, deeply rooted weeds. If you are fighting Bermuda grass, you may have to resort to treating individual clumps with a paint brush or cotton gloves that have Round-up on them when the Bermuda shows green leaves in early summer. If you wear Roundup wet cotton gloves, you must protect your skin by wearing long, waterproof gloves under the cotton gloves. Wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water after using chemicals and always wear protective eye equipment, long sleeve shirt, long pants and clothing that will minimise skin exposure. Remember- you can't spray Roundup in vegetables and harvest in the same year. The waiting period is one year between spraying and harvesting.The paint brush or cotton glove method puts Roundup on the Bermuda grass blades only and does not contaminate the ground. Always read entire label when using pesticides and follow all precautions. I don't know of an organic way to garden in a Bermuda grass infested area. I'd like to receive comments from readers.

Start summer vegetable plants from seed now-but not in the ground yet.

I hope you have at least picked out your tomato seeds. i've planted mine for myself and 200 for the "Feed the Hungry" garden.

How to grow Giant Pumpkins

 

 

Timely Tips and Instructions for Growing Giant Pumpkins:

 

It’s time to think of Halloween pumpkins if you want to grow a giant one. The longer it’s growing, the bigger it’ll get, so start soon!

1. Select a Site in full sun. Growth relates directly to the amount of sunlight.  They need 8 to 12 hours every day.
2. They need space. Each hill (cluster of three to four plants) should be spaced 35 to 50 feet apart, if you are planting more than one hill.

3. Soil must be rich and well prepared.  The best pumpkins come from the best prepared soil. Dig a hole 3 to 4 feet deep and 3 to 5 feet in diameter and mix the soil well with six to eight bags of soil amendments or conditioners. Include steer or horse manure that is one or more years old. Put the mixed soil back in the hole. You should now have a mound two to five feet in diameter and 16-18” high at the center.
4. Germinate Giant Pumpkin Seeds.
   1. Soak seeds overnight 8-12 hours in warm water. This softens the shell and accelerates germination. Start this mid-April to mid-May. If you have a warm, sunny environment, like a greenhouse or cold frame, you will get substantial growth before transplanting, so use a container that will hold enough seed germinating soil mix such as a 5” or larger pot or a flat of soil 2” deep and 18” X 18”. Keep moist and warm 75 to 80 degrees F is ideal. Special seed germinating soil cables under the flats or pots will hasten the process. The cable is also useful for starting cuttings of other plants. This special cable is water resistant and is safe, avoiding electrocution. Plug in to a protected ground fault interrupted plug for further safety. Do not use sharp tools in the soil once the cable is in place. To keep the cable for years of growing, clean it off and store it dry between uses.
   2. Under these conditions, the seeds should sprout in 4-7 days, sometimes even sooner.
   3. After the seedlings have developed one or two true (large and veined) leaves, the plants are ready to transplant into the mound.
   4. Alternatively, you may just plant the seeds directly in the mounds once the soil has warmed up later in the season. Competitive giant pumpkin growers have successfully used both methods.
   5. Transplant on a warm, calm day or in the evening to reduce dehydration. Plant the seedling peat pot and all in the center of the mound, making sure the peat pot is well below the surface of the mound. Use care to minimize soil compaction with your weight. You can distribute your weight across a sheet of plywood or large, lightweight board.
   6.  Protect your new plant from earwigs with rolled up newspaper or earwig bait or put a cardboard box with the top and bottom removed to also protect from rodents and wind. Take off once the seedling is fully established, usually 7-10 days.
5. Watering, Fertilizing and Care.
   1. Pumpkins are 90% water, so the soil should be kept fairly moist. Do not keep the soil saturated, though as disease problems might arise. Water daily to once every 2-5 days depending on your weather and soil conditions. Watering times should be consistent. The best time to water is early mornings 5 to 8:30 am. If you can't make that time, the next best time is late afternoons/early evenings.
   2. Use organic fertilizer every 5-10 days. Seaweed kelp and/or fish emulsion are some of the fertilizers being used by competitive Giant pumpkin growers.
   3. Mulch around the main stem with bark, compost, straw or well aged manure 3-4” deep. Leave 9-12” air space around the stem to avoid rotting it. Mulching will help regulate soil temperature and retain moisture around the main stem and primary root system.
   4. Place a wooden pallet under the pumpkin before it gets too big and too difficult to move (10-25 pounds) to keep the pumpkins bottom from rotting, and to facilitate lifting and transporting later.
   5. Shade the pumpkin once it reaches 24” to 36” diameter to keep the skin from burning, hardening and cracking from the hot, mid-late summer/early autumn sunshine. The pumpkin expands very quickly during this last growth phase, so protect the flexibility of the skin with shade. Short of building a miniature shade house, you can use cheese cloth over the fruit or carefully cover the pumpkin with its own leaves. Be very careful not to break the vine.
   6. I’ve (Ken) carved larger pumpkins with a small electric chain saw. It works great on the extra-thick rind.

 

Article by Stuart Shim copyright 2008

Edited by Ken Brizzi 2010

Decorative, Useful Plants You Can Eat

Weird Al has a spoof of Michael Jackson's song "Beat It" called "Eat It". I knew of "Eat It" long before I had heard "Beat It". You can connect with Weird Al through my Twitter page or do a search in Twitter for @alyankovic

 

My friend, Dion, said "If I can't eat it, I pull it out of my yard". That includes shrubs and shade trees that don't produce tasty fruit. He and I spent several hours last Saturday grafting multiple varieties of cherries onto an established cherry tree. I commented that a crepe myrtle was shading the cherry and should be transplanted or pulled out. Dion said "If we can't eat it, pull it out". It wasn't even his yard. The crepe myrtle stayed-for now. I'm guessing once the cherries start producing, they will become a priority. Trees that produce edible fruit are mostly well known. Some not so well know are Avocado (Mexican types are the most cold hardy), Cornelian and Kousa Dogwoods, Jujube, Mayhaw, White and Persian Mulberries, Elderberry, Olives, Persimmons, Strawberry Tree and Loquat (there are hybrids that produce superior fruit to the seedlings). For an extensive list of deciduous fruit trees see: Dave Wilson Nursery Catalog Online

Here is a list of edible shrubs and vines for your yard:

Pineapple guava, strawberry guava, Natal Plum (caution: spiny thorns!), Artichoke, Paw paw, Ginger, Dwarf citrus, kiwi, passion fruit, dwarf purple fig, blueberries, cane berries like Oregon 1030 Everbearing Raspberries, Fruiting Quince, Currant, Gooseberry, Rosemary, sages, thymes, many more perennial herbs, Asparagus, Rhubarb (keep raw plants away from pets and children. Must be cooked to be edible), Grapes, Passion fruit vine (use only a hardy one), Aloe, Lemon grass,

If you have a greenhouse, you can have Lichee, Mango, Macadamia, tea, lemon guava, Vanilla Orchid, dwarf bananas like Ice Cream and Cavendish and many more varieties.

So, don't worry if you eat yourself out of house and home, because there's always they yard.

Healthy Gardening,

Ken Brizzi

Fruit Tree Multiple Varieties on one tree (follow up to grafting) by Budding...

For those that missed the garden demonstration on grafting, you still have time to save scion (top) wood for budding. Look up budding on line since it would take me pages to detail the procedure here. Basically, I would like to say that if you wish to have me teach you in the garden, email me and we'll set up a day for that. You have a couple of months until budding season. The sap in the parent (rootstock) plant needs to start flowing to bud.

Now is the time to collect the scion wood-while it is dormant. A word of caution though.....be sure the varieties you collect are not patented. You are not allowed to propagate patented plants just like DVD movies are protected from being copied. If you are in doubt, look on line or ask me.

To collect the varieties you want to add to your trees, clip a branch that has some dormant leaf (not flower) buds on wood that is about thumb thickness. This will give you a flat enough surface to make the "shield bud" cut needed to insert into the rootstock. Keep your donor budwood moist with damp shredded paper in a plastic bag in the refrigerator. Do not freeze. Do not keep under water. Check moisture in bag once a week.

Wood is dormant in January. When the buds start swelling, it's too late to collect, so don't wait. Ask friends, neighbors, and even your favorite nursery for particular varieties you need. Sometimes you might have to pay for the scion wood. Be sure it is not diseased. In plums, cherries and some other stone fruits, ring spot virus is a problem. If the tree was ill last summer, don't chance infecting your parent tree.

Walnut, Pistachio, and Pecan are extremely difficult and would be best to buy already professionally budded and grown out as deep-potted and well rooted trees.

Some fruit plants like pomegranates are on their own roots and don't require grafting or budding. Others can grow on their own roots, but need to be grafted due to soil, insect or other problems. For example, grapes succumb to phylloxera insects if grown on their own rootstocks in large vineyards. Singly in a backyard, there is a good chance phylloxera will not be there, unless your yard backs up to an infested vineyard. Also, grapes can be grafted to be more vigorous in poor soils.

Select rootstocks and top varieties with purpose and enjoy the fruits of your labor under the shade of your trees.

Healthy Gardening.

Ken Brizzi

 

Dill Pickles - An Easy, Delicious Recipe

 

Dill Pickles - The Blue Ball Book - Short Method 

Recipe doubled with some adaptations to make 7 quarts.  Use a meat slicer to cut cucumbers 1/4" thick  as "stackers" when fitting in canning jars. 

 

1 cup each sugar and sea salt

2 qt. distilled white vinegar (5% acid)

2 qt. water

2 tbsp. mixed pickling spice

21 plus medium cucumbers (5 - 6 inches long), washed and ends trimmed

garlic (sliced) AND dill flower heads. 

 

Combine the first four ingredients.

Tie spices in a cheesecloth bag.

Add to liquid and simmer 15 minutes.

 

Wash and heat-dry widemouth jars in dishwasher.

Put a head of dill and a slice or more of garlic in each jar.

Pack cucumber slices in hot jars leaving 1/4" headspace.

 

Heat brine to boiling.

Pour over cucumbers in hot jars leaving 1/4" headspace. 

Wipe clean jar rim, tighten lids and caps.

In a pot tall enough for water to come up to top of lids, fill 1/2 way with water

and bring to a boil.

  Place jars in water and adjust so that water is to top of lids.  

Process in hot water bath. Count 15 muniutes from beginning of the water boiling. 

Remove with jar lifting tool.  Cool and watch for lids to cave downward indicating

a firm seal. 

If you decide to use this receipe, you'll want to plan space for and  pick up seed for cucumbers, dill and plant garlic cloves in your garden this spring.

Healthy Gardening,

K. Alan Brizzi 

 

via gardenguru.typepad.com

Lemongrass - Refreshing, delicious cooking herb and gift idea

Lemongrass is a sensual delight in the garden, tea, stir fry, oriental cooking and in candle making. I’ll show you how to use this striking garden perennial to make tea gifts as party favors or “just because” gifts.  It’s quick, easy, and classy. Lemon grass Tea Treats. MVI_4888.AVI   

Since Lemongrass is green and healthy looking most of the year, it can be harvested and used at any time except late January through early March, when it is brown from the frost. If you wish to have some on hand for winter use, in the fall bring a pot of it indoors as a house plant and grow it near a sunny window.

It is extremely easy to start from a clump division from a friend. Nurseries sell it in small pots, which is all you need as it is fast growing and will develop into a large clump in one or two seasons. Use monthly organic feedings and water twice a week with the rest of your vegetable garden. It is not fussy about watering and will withstand a little drought. If it dries out and turns brown in the summer, it will quickly recover with watering. Few pests bother lemongrass. It is a delight to smell in the garden and visitors are easily impressed when you crush some leaf tips in your hand for them.  Visually, it is a nice corner accent and blocks the hose from running over delicate plants when you walk around the corner of the garden to water.  Some gardeners use it in the corners just to protect plants from the hose. Rosemary works well for hose protection, too.

Lemongrass is healthy and tasty. I hope you have a chance to try it in your garden this year.

Happy, Healthy Gardening,

Ken Brizzi

Coles: Broccoli, Cabbage, Kale, Cauliflower, BroccoFlower , Romanesco, Collards

Growing Cole Crops

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Cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, Brussels sprouts and kale make up a group of cool season vegetables known as cole crops. The word “cole” means stem and has nothing to do with the fact that these vegetables are tolerant to “cold.”

Cole crops are hardy and grow best in the spring and fall. However, growers must take care to avoid extended periods of low temperature before or after transplanting.

Successful production of cole crops is related to how each crop grows and which plant part is eaten. The edible parts of broccoli and cauliflower are the flower heads which are quite sensitive to environmental and nutritional stress. Cabbage and Brussels sprouts produce leafy heads and can withstand greater fluctuations in weather and nutrition.

Growing Conditions

Site Cole crops will tolerate some shade but full sun in winter is always preferable. If garden space or orientation is such that some vegetables will have to be partially shaded, reserve the full-sun area for warm season crops.

Soil A wide range of soils is suitable but fertile, well-drained loams are considered best, especially for early crops. Cole crops will grow better in heavier, cooler soils than warm season crops.

Fertilizer A soil pH in the range of 6.0 to 6.8 is optimum, but a pH maintained on the high side of the range will help control the soil-borne disease called clubroot. Cole crops are heavy feeders and do best in a deep, fertile soil enriched with plenty of organic matter. A soil test will determine deficiencies of major plant nutrients and recommend ways to correct them. Because cole crops can easily become deficient in minor elements, at least part of the fertilizer material should be composted manure or composted vegetable matter to ensure a supply of these nutrients. Of the four crops, cauliflower is the most exacting in soil and fertility requirements.

Planting and Culture

Most growers grow cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli and Brussels sprouts from spring transplants rather than seeding them directly, although fall crops may be seeded directly into the garden in early summer. A quality transplant is a vital key to a successful crop. To prevent premature flower stalk formation, keep the seedlings growing above 60º F. This is particularly true for broccoli and cauliflower. A good transplant is 5 to 6 weeks old, sturdy with good color, and has been hardened off. Older plants or those that have already formed small heads do not yield as well as younger plants. Ensure vigorous growth once plants are set in the garden to prevent the flowering heads of broccoli and cauliflower from “buttoning”. “Buttons” are small, unusable heads borne on small plants stunted by drought, weed competition, or insect damage. A few days of low temperature (35ºF to 50º F) can also cause buttons to develop. While young cabbage plants can withstand very low temperatures (even down to 10º to 15º F for a night or two), broccoli and cauliflower are not nearly so resistant. Do not plant too early!

Space rows 24 to 36 inches apart, setting transplants or thinning seedlings12 inches apart for cabbage and 18 inches for cauliflower, broccoli, and Brussels sprouts.

When direct-seeding, plant seed 1/4 inch deep. Conserve seed by grouping 3 to 4 seeds at the desired plant spacing instead of the more traditional system of sowing a continuous row and discarding many seedlings by thinning. Proper spacing is important for maximum crop yield. Adding a soluble starter fertilizer around each plant at the time of transplanting helps get the plant off to a good start. Before filling in the transplant hole add one cup of starter solution made up of 2 tablespoons per gallon of soluble fertilizer such as 16-32-16 or 10-45-15.

Weed Control

Avoid garden areas heavily infested with quackgrass. Hand weeding or hoeing, shallow cultivation and straw or hay mulches will provide excellent control. Black plastic mulch also provides good weed control when crops are established with transplants. An efficient planting pattern is a double row with the plants in a staggered arrangement.

Pest Control

The first line of defense against all insect pests and diseases of cole crops is crop rotation. Do not plant any cole crop in a spot occupied the previous year by another cole family member. Two or three-year rotations are even better. Flea beetles and root maggots can cause serious damage to cole crops, chewing away the roots of young seedlings so they wilt and die. Covering beds or rows with floating row covers of spun-bonded polyester for the first month of more of growth will prevent attacks by both these pests. The larval stages of several different species of moths can also cause serious damage. Row covers left on throughout the growing season, or regular applications of Bt (Bacillus thuriengiensis), a bacterial poison that kills only caterpillars, will control cabbage worms of all species. Clubroot is a soil-borne disease causing stunted plants which wilt even in moist soil. Raise the pH to 7.0 to 7.2 if this disease is a problem. Practice rotation, that is, don’t plant the same crop in the same spot every year. Switch spots where you plant crops.

Harvest

Cabbage Harvest when the head is very firm. Springy heads are not mature.

Cauliflower Harvest heads when they reach a diameter of 5 to 8 inches and before the segments

begin to separate. To get pure white heads, exclude light. If you are not growing a “self-blanching” variety, tie the outer leaves over the developing head with rubber bands or clothespins and keep them tied until harvest. Do not be concerned if some light gets through and discolors the head; the eating quality is not affected.

Broccoli Harvest while the head is still compact and before the small flower buds open up to

show yellow. Head diameter will range from 4 to 8 inches. After this center head is harvested

side shoots (heads) of 2 to 3 inches will develop.

Brussels sprouts Small, cabbage-like sprouts develop along the thick stem, maturing first at the

base of the plant. As the sprouts enlarge, remove the large leaves between the sprouts. Pinch out

the growing tip of the plants in early September to hasten maturity. Harvest the sprouts when

they are firm and before they open up. A light frost or two improves their flavor.

Kale - Harvest kale any time leaves are large enough for intended use. Tender young leaves are

best for salad; older leaves for cooking. Frost improves the flavor of kale.

Storage

Mature cole crops are quite hardy and will withstand several frosts (or even snow) in the fall; therefore, “garden storage” is feasible well into October or November, even later for the hardiest varieties of kale and Brussels sprouts.

Late fall or winter cabbage can be stored for several months if kept in humid conditions as close to freezing as possible. Store only disease-free heads. Remove loose outer leaves and place in containers lined with perforated plastic bags. Pull out the cabbages and hang in a moist cellar, roots and all, or cut heads, remove loose outer leaves and spread one layer deep on shelves or pallets in a moist root cellar. Visit website: ceinfo.unh.eduUNH Cooperative Extension programs and policies are consistent with pertinent Federal and State laws and regulations on non-discrimination regarding age, color, handicap, national origin, race, religion, sex, sexual orientation, or veterans status.Fact sheet originally developed by Dr. Otho Wells, former UNH Cooperative Extension Vegetable Specialist, revised 2/01

How to grow Giant Pumpkins

 

 

Timely Tips and Instructions for Growing Giant Pumpkins:

It’s time to think of Halloween pumpkins if you want to grow a giant one. The longer it’s growing, the bigger it’ll get, so start soon!

1. Select a Site in full sun. Growth relates directly to the amount of sunlight.  They need 8 to 12 hours every day.
2. They need space. Each hill (cluster of three to four plants) should be spaced 35 to 50 feet apart, if you are planting more than one hill.
3. Soil must be rich and well prepared.  The best pumpkins come from the best prepared soil. Dig a hole 3 to 4 feet deep and 3 to 5 feet in diameter and mix the soil well with six to eight bags of soil amendments or conditioners. Include steer or horse manure that is one or more years old. Put the mixed soil back in the hole. You should now have a mound two to five feet in diameter and 16-18” high at the center.
4. Germinate Giant Pumpkin Seeds.
   1. Soak seeds overnight 8-12 hours in warm water. This softens the shell and accelerates germination. Start this mid-April to mid-May. If you have a warm, sunny environment, like a greenhouse or cold frame, you will get substantial growth before transplanting, so use a container that will hold enough seed germinating soil mix such as a 5” or larger pot or a flat of soil 2” deep and 18” X 18”. Keep moist and warm 75 to 80 degrees F is ideal. Special seed germinating soil cables under the flats or pots will hasten the process. The cable is also useful for starting cuttings of other plants. This special cable is water resistant and is safe, avoiding electrocution. Plug in to a protected ground fault interrupted plug for further safety. Do not use sharp tools in the soil once the cable is in place. To keep the cable for years of growing, clean it off and store it dry between uses.
   2. Under these conditions, the seeds should sprout in 4-7 days, sometimes even sooner.
   3. After the seedlings have developed one or two true (large and veined) leaves, the plants are ready to transplant into the mound.
   4. Alternatively, you may just plant the seeds directly in the mounds once the soil has warmed up later in the season. Competitive giant pumpkin growers have successfully used both methods.
   5. Transplant on a warm, calm day or in the evening to reduce dehydration. Plant the seedling peat pot and all in the center of the mound, making sure the peat pot is well below the surface of the mound. Use care to minimize soil compaction with your weight. You can distribute your weight across a sheet of plywood or large, lightweight board.
   6.  Protect your new plant from earwigs with rolled up newspaper or earwig bait or put a cardboard box with the top and bottom removed to also protect from rodents and wind. Take off once the seedling is fully established, usually 7-10 days.
5. Watering, Fertilizing and Care.
   1. Pumpkins are 90% water, so the soil should be kept fairly moist. Do not keep the soil saturated, though as disease problems might arise. Water daily to once every 2-5 days depending on your weather and soil conditions. Watering times should be consistent. The best time to water is early mornings 5 to 8:30 am. If you can't make that time, the next best time is late afternoons/early evenings.
   2. Use organic fertilizer every 5-10 days. Seaweed kelp and/or fish emulsion are some of the fertilizers being used by competitive Giant pumpkin growers.
   3. Mulch around the main stem with bark, compost, straw or well aged manure 3-4” deep. Leave 9-12” air space around the stem to avoid rotting it. Mulching will help regulate soil temperature and retain moisture around the main stem and primary root system.
   4. Place a wooden pallet under the pumpkin before it gets too big and too difficult to move (10-25 pounds) to keep the pumpkins bottom from rotting, and to facilitate lifting and transporting later.
   5. Shade the pumpkin once it reaches 24” to 36” diameter to keep the skin from burning, hardening and cracking from the hot, mid-late summer/early autumn sunshine. The pumpkin expands very quickly during this last growth phase, so protect the flexibility of the skin with shade. Short of building a miniature shade house, you can use cheese cloth over the fruit or carefully cover the pumpkin with its own leaves. Be very careful not to break the vine.
   6. I’ve carved larger pumpkins with a small electric chain saw. It works great on the extra-thick rind. The world record is 1,725 pounds set last year in Ohio.

Healthy Gardening!

 

Article by Stuart Shim copyright 2008

Edited by Ken Brizzi 2010

Timely Tips "Growing Citrus"

Growing Citrus for health, food and savings.

  Grapefruits ripen throughout the year, producing crops that ripen summer, fall and spring. From the time they flower to harvest time is about 16 to 18 months. Most hold on the tree very long and still maintain excellent, sweet quality.

 

Cultivated for thousands of years, most citrus originated in Asia. The two biggest growers of orange fruit for juicing are San Paulo, Brazil and Florida. Central California is an ideal location to grow many varieties of citrus. See www.Montereybaynsy.com or www.fourwindsgrowers.com/ for the best source of information on Citrus varieties and valuable information on growing in the central valley of California. I’ll tell you my recommendations later, but first, let’s look at what to do with what you are already growing in your yard. Since citrus are mostly subtropical and we live in a temperate to subtropical area, winter frost protection is a concern. Limes tend to freeze the easiest and Meyer lemons, tangerines and grapefruit tend to be the most cold-hardy. We experienced a very cold snap in early December 2009 that ruined some fruit and damaged some citrus plants. If your tree or bush has branch damage, wait until April to determine what will not grow back. Be sure to check the soil for moisture in spring and do not let the frost damaged plant go too dry. Lightly fertilize in April. When new growth starts, prune out the dead wood.

 

Citrus plants need sun and heat. The dwarf types can grow productively in large containers, such as a half wine barrel. Full size trees can grow 30 feet by 30 feet if they are vigorous varieties. If you have limited garden space and want several different types of fruit, you can plant 3 types in the same hole. Be sure to match their vigor so that one variety doesn’t shade out and crowd out the other types. Here are some good combinations: Kumquat, Lime and Meyer lemon. All three are small. If you have more space and don’t do any pruning, Orange, Grapefruit and sour lemons are all vigorous and will grow to 30 feet. If you do prune the vigorous varieties, you can keep them 12 feet tall and as wide. Especially with the vigorous types, choose a dwarfing rootstock so you don’t have to prune very often. You’ll still get plenty of fruit even if you prune the plants back a bit every couple of years.

The October newsletter talked about fertilizer. For citrus, high nitrogen and high iron fertilizer is best for spring and summer applications. In fall and during bloom time, switch to 0-10-10 or bone meal to promote flowers, sweeten the fruit and add cold hardiness. Too much fruit production can break branches, so be sure to thin the fruit when it is the diameter of a dime or nickel. If it still produces too much, you’ll end up with small fruit that lacks sweetness. See “Frequently Asked Questions” from the about growing techniques www.fourwindsgrowers.com website for lots more information about growing techniques and answers to common questions.

The most popular citrus varieties are: Meyer Lemon (sweet), Washington Navel Orange, Owari Satsuma Mandarin, Eureka Lemon (acidic), Kaffir Lime (Cook with the foliage), Fukushu kumquat, Limoncello Santa Teresa Italian lemon. For making pretty and fun citrus juice, add color to summer drinks by squeezing in Moro blood oranges which have dark red juice inside. Valencia is the primary juice orange because the juice holds well in the refrigerator whereas navel and other juiced oranges become bitter overnight.

Many varieties of citrus grow well in the Sacramento valley. Don’t be afraid to experiment with something you really want.

Healthy Gardening!

Ken Brizzi